It was my last night in Japan and I was sure I had much more than enough money to carry me through a sit-down dinner (as opposed to the typical benefit store sushi takeouts). That evening I was certain I wanted to try okonomiyaki for the first time. It was a delicacy that I had long wanted to try because my plane landed in Japan, but my unreliable sense of direction could not bring me to an okonomiyaki place in Osaka. finally in Kyoto, on the way back to the hostel, I found an unassuming restaurant tucked along Karasuma Street.

After a minute of waiting, my travel buddy and I were led by a waitress deeper into the restaurant where big tables were organized neatly. Each table in the area had an iron griddle to keep the food warm. The crowd here was young that night — students and yuppies enjoying terrific food and greater conversations.

When the waitress realized we were not Japanese, she hurried to one corner and returned with an English menu. The menu was fantastic. Not only did it discuss the dishes well, there were also instructions on how to prepare the okonomiyaki Kyoto-style.

Osaka’s Okonomiyaki VS Kyoto’s Negiyaki
Okonomiyaki vs Betayaki vs Negiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a conventional Japanese savory pancake. It’s a portmanteau — okonomi, which implies “what you like” because you can add any other ingredient you want; and yaki, which implies “grilled” or “cooked.” Although the meat ingredient varies depending on who’s cooking and who’s eating, the base remains the same — wheat flour, eggs, and cabbage. The Kansai region is said to be the birthplace okonomiyaki, and Osaka and Hiroshima became well-known for these veggie pancakes.

Okonomiyaki: wheat flour, cabbage, and eggs (JPY 819)
The city of Kyoto, on the other hand, is known for two other varieties of okonomiyaki. Betayaki is much thinner but uses the same base ingredients. Negiyaki replaces cabbage with scallions (Japanese bunching onions, known in the vernacular as kujo).

Negiyaki — wheat flour, kujo onions, eggs — with shrimps and clams (JPY 735)
We would love to try all three, but with only two stomachs to accommodate them, we had to give up betayaki. The decision-making, however, did not stop there. Donguri serves several versions of these pancakes. There are beef, pork, seafood, and even vegetarian options. because we were both okonomiyaki virgins (read: first-timers), we opted with the conventional okonomiyaki. We went for the less boring option for our negiyaki — seafood.

When they were served, we were overwhelmed by its size. We didn’t realize that each serving would be big enough for two. The okonomiyaki had a thicker batter. Negiyaki was thinner but much more loose. This made it harder to be cut by the spatula. The hot griddle kept “cooking” both pieces as we followed the instructional card on how to season and garnish them. We added sweet and spicy sauces and sprinkles a bit of dried seaweed.

Both were crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. Both were very filling. Both tasted really, really good. The freshness of the vegetable ingredients stood out, complimented with the teriyaki-reminiscent sauce. The okonomiyaki looked much more like pancake and the negiyaki much more like thin crust pizza.  They may not look alike, but they tasted strikingly similar.  except for the shrimps and clams, I couldn’t even tell the difference.

Tal vez era sólo yo. maybe I was just drunk.

Sake vs Chu-hi

Well, I wasn’t drunk. but I was drinking in between bites of those pancakes. On my left hand side was a small glass of warm sake. and on my right, a cold mug of red chu-hi.

Sake (JPY525) vs Chu-hi (JPY399)
From the menu
The drink selection of Donguri is quite limited, which was a welcome ease. because I had never before had a drop of sake, I was sold as soon as I found it on the drink list. but I knew that I had a love-hate relationship with strong drinks, so I had to have a safe back-up. Chu-hi looked irresistible on the menu. Chu-hi comes in a variety of flavors (fresh lime, green tea, etc) but the waitress recommended the red concoction.

As expected, the sake was too strong for me. Yeah, I’m lame like that. but the chu-hi was a winner. It tasted strong, too, to be honest, but it had this fruity taste that disguised its alcohol content. It reminded me of our very own cocktails-in-a-bottle (Tanduay Ice) except it had much more kick and flavor, thanks to the port red wine in the mixture. Chu-hi is said to have originated in Kyoto, and is the ideal match for okonomiyaki according to locals.

Sauteed cabbage and beef in spicy sauce (JPY 580)
By the end of the night, we were awfully full that we could not even touch the other dish we ordered, Beef and Cabbage. We had to wait it out and made room in our tummy before we finally dug in again, but we were not disappointed either. It was the ideal combination of spicy and sweet, veggie and meat.

Overall, it was the best meal we had in KYoto. Sin embargo, debo admitir que parte de la sentencia era la libertad de preocuparse demasiado por el presupuesto. Donguri es económico, pero no compromete el servicio y la comida, ideal para los viajeros presupuestarios que tienen su propia experiencia gastronómica japonesa y placentera en Kioto.

Donguri Okonomiyaki Dining
Karasuma Street, Kioto
Número de teléfono: +81 75-353-1777
Sitio web:
Menú completo aquí

Horario de apertura
De lunes a sábados: 05:00 pm a 03:00 am
Domingos y vacaciones: 11:30 a.m. a 03:00 am

Cómo llegar al restaurante Donguri Okonomiyaki Karasuma: desde la estación de tren de Kyoto, camine por la carretera perpendicular a la estación. Ese es Karasuma Dori. Camina directamente y lo encontrarás a tu izquierda antes de llegar a la calle Shijo.

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